Saltwater Aquarium DIY
If an aquarist is unimpressed by the range of aquariums on the market, then there is always the alternative of constructing a home-made tank or it used to called Aquarium DIY (Do It Yourself). Saltwater Aquarium DIY requires only patience and precision: the most important thing is to follow the sequence of operations. The hobbyist thus has the chance to choose a tank according to his or her requirements or the setting within which it will be placed.
Models
Aquariums come in various shapes and sizes so that they can fit into the interior design of any home. Traditionally, most tanks take the form of a horizontal rectangle, but these days it is also possible to find cubes, vertical rectangles, or panoramic aquariums, all specially adapted to a specific setting.
The basic model - and the cheapest -consists of a tank with a lid. It is also possible to equip it with a lighting hood. There are other models with an integral hood and minimal external decoration, i.e. a strip, of varying widths, that goes round both the base and the top, hiding the surface of the water. This type of aquarium can be sold on its own or with a support. It can sometimes be fitted with a filtration unit. Finally, in the top range, there are aquariums built into a piece of furniture, normally containing a filtration unit and lighting hood. The supporting furniture often has shelves or closets that serve to hide the pumps and other equipment, and the aquarium is framed by decorative elements that leave it visible from three sides. |
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Materials
Commercial aquariums are almost always made of glued glass, with silicone joints. These materials are suitable for water volumes of around 500 liters - volumes rarely exceeded in the aquarium trade. The generalized nature of the materials and the relative simplicity of the gluing mean that any careful hobbyist can build a glued glass aquarium him or herself.
For bigger volumes, polyester resin or cement are used, with only the front part of the tank made of glass. These are the materials found in public aquariums. Plexiglas, which is light but also scratches easily, is used for the rarer round forms. Small plastic tanks are also available for use as rearing or quarantine tanks.
Dimensions
The most harmonious form is obtained when the length is equal to the height multiplied by 1.5-2.5. The height will be slightly greater than the width, except in built-in tanks, where the contrary is the case. These proportions can be adhered to up to a length of 1.5 m, but they are impossible after that, as the height must never exceed 0.5 m.
It is not advisable to use very narrow aquariums, as a trick of the eye means that a tank seems one-third narrower when it is filled with water, producing an unfortunate visual effect. Narrow tanks can be attractive, however, if they are put on narrow pieces of furniture, such as a mantelpiece or a dividing wall between two rooms. It is also important to take into account the weight of the tank. A solid support is required, because an aquarium is heavy when it is put into operation: the weight of the water and decor must be added to that of the tank itself.
Dimensions, Volumes, and Weights
You must consider the gross volume (that of an empty aquarium) the net volume (when the tank is full, the sand and decor take up a certain amount of space) and the final weight of the aquarium when in operation. This depends on the bed and the extent of the decor; as these vary from one tank to another, the weight is therefore only indicated as a rough guide.
Positioning
An aquarium must be positioned with care, as once it is filled it will be impossible to move it anywhere else. It is a complicated decision, involving the visual impact on the room, practical considerations, and ecological criteria.
• Visual Impact
Obviously, a big tank fits better into a large room, and a narrow tank into a small room. Choose a fairly dark spot to highlight it, well away from the television, to avoid any competition between these two centers of attention. An aquarium traditionally has its longest dimension set against a wall, but there are other ways of setting it off. It can occupy a corner, be placed on a partition between two rooms, or be built into a wall.
• Practical Considerations
You must plan on having an electrical socket at an easy distance. A nearby tap would also be an asset, but if this is not possible make sure you have a hose for filling and draining the tank. When the aquarium is set against a wall, it is advisable to leave a space of a few centimeters at the back to make room for cables and pipes. The height of the aquarium also has to be planned with care, as it should be at eye level to be seen to advantage. Therefore, when it is placed in a main room, its base must be around 1 m from the floor, and in this way children will also be able to see it without any problem.
• Ecological Criteria
It is essential that sunlight, especially that coming from the south, does not strike the aquarium directly, as there is a danger that green algae will grow, not to mention an excessive increase in temperature in summer. It is therefore best to face the tank towards the north or east. Do not hesitate to try out different positions with an empty tank before taking a decision with lasting consequences.
The Support
As we have already seen, the weight of an aquarium is quite considerable. It is therefore vital to set up a sturdy and perfectly horizontal support (check the latter with a spirit level). Special furniture is available in the aquarium trade, but you can just as well build one yourself, the essential point being that the weight is distributed on intermediary beams. The support can be the same size as the tank or bigger, but it should never be smaller, either in length or width. Put a sheet of water-resistant marine plywood - 10-15 mm thick, according to the dimensions and weight of the aquarium - on the support, and then cover this with a 15 mm thick polystyrene sheet, which will compensate for any irregularities in the support. If you are a do-it-yourself enthusiast and have patience, you can set the aquarium, together with its support, into a piece of wooden furniture, so that it can only be seen through its front pane.
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Saltwater Aquarium built into a wooden closet made by an aquarist. |
The Lid
The lid, placed directly above the tank, is necessary for several reasons:
- to avoid water spilling on the lighting hood;
- to stop dust falling into the water;
- to prevent any possible jumping fish escaping from the tank;
- to reduce evaporation.
The lid must be made of glass to allow light to enter the tank, and so it must be cleaned regularly. On a practical level, small pegs stuck to the top make it easier to handle, and some corners can be cut away to make room for pipes and electrical cables. Also for practical reasons, it is advisable to have several small lids which fit together, especially in big tanks.
Avoid
- placing any decorative objects immediately above the aquarium, as this makes using the lid impractical;
- putting any electrical devices under the aquarium: this is dangerous, due to the possibility of water spilling;
- installing the aquarium near a radiator.
Making an Aquarium of Glued Glass
Making an aquarium with glued glass is not the exclusive domain of professionals; these days it is also an option for hobbyists. The crucial factor is the care taken in the operation, along with a good organization of the work plan and respect for the sequence of the operation. It is advisable to practice first with a mall rearing tank or hospital tank before taking the plunge and building a large aquarium. Hanging out in aquarium clubs can be useful, as it will give you a chance to meet experienced aquarists who can provide advice or give you a hand when you come to glue your first aquarium.
Materials and Tools
• Glass
The fundamental material for your aquarium, the element which underpins its existence, is obviously glass. It can be cut to measure in glass merchants or do-it-your-self stores. This operation must be performed correctly, as any slight mistake in the cutting can have serious consequences, especially if the corners are not perfectly square.
The calculation of the dimensions of the panes must therefore be made with care, and do not forget to take into account the thickness of both the glass and the layer of glue (around 0.5 cm). The table below gives you the dimensions of the glass required for two tanks of different volumes. You need a base, two small sides, the front, and the back. There are also provisions for longitudinal reinforcements, which prevent the glass panes from curving due to the weight of water and support the two-section lid.
In larger tanks, where the length is equal to or greater than 1 meter, one or sometimes-several lateral reinforcements are also required to consolidate the unit. Off cuts of glass can be used as pegs for lifting off the lids. After the cutting, remember to ask for the edges to be sanded down lightly, to avoid any unfortunate accidents from splinters or sharp edges.
Cutting The Glass For Two Different Tanks
We have chosen one tank of 96 liters and another of 200 liters (the gross volume in both cases) that can easily be built by two people.
Do not forget to cut a piece off a corner of each section of the lid and have some pegs (around 2x5 cm) ready to use as handles.
• Glue Above all, make sure not to rub your eyes when handling it and, in the event of any accident, consult a doctor immediately. This glue gives off a characteristic vinegary smell which disappears after a little while. It keeps well if the tube is closed with its original cap and stored in a cool, dark, dry place. |
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| Squeezing the silicone glue onto a sheet of glass. |
• Supplementary materials
You will require the following materials for the gluing process:
- methylated spirits or acetone, for cleaning the panes before gluing;
- clean rags or absorbent paper;
- cutter with a fine blade;
- sticky tape;
- small receptacle for water;
- set square and tape measure.
When you have assembled all the necessary materials, you are ready to go on to the construction. Prepare a work surface large enough to allow you to spread out the panes and move around freely. It is advisable to get somebody to help you by holding the panes.
Installing The Box Filter
There is very little left for you to do, for the moment, apart from installing a box filter. The filtration system can be planned at the gluing stage or added afterwards. It can be placed on the right or on the left and must be hidden by exterior trim, such as a wooden facing that matches the aquarium and its support. Its volume must not be less than 1/10 of the total volume of the aquarium, if it is to be completely effective. Inside the tank, you must add the following parts, cut from 3 mm thick glass:
- a glass panel separating the filter from the rest of the aquarium, with a perforation to allow the water to flow through.
Going back to the example of the two tanks which served to illustrate the gluing of an aquarium, the dimensions of this panel would be:
• 28.7 x 38 cm for the 96 liter tank
• 38.3 x 48 cm for the 200 liter tank.
- four strips of glass intended to hold the filtering material (3 cm wide and 38 cm long for the 96 liter tank; 48 cm long for the 200 liter tank). |
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| Panel dividing of the box filter. |
Note that the box filter is slightly lower than the main tank, to allow the water to circulate.
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Front view of aquarium. |
Sticking The Various Elements Together
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The sequence for the operation is as follows: |
5. Put one of the two large panels in place, then the two small ones (diagrams D and E). Note the position of the hands on the top edge of the panels. |
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7. Apply pressure to the areas which have been glued, to eliminate any air bubbles - this is extremely important. It is quite normal for the glue to squeeze out on both the inside and outside.
8. Use the sticky tape on the outer side to keep the four vertical panes upright (diagram G).
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9. Moisten a finger in the receptacle containing water, then smooth down the glue on the inside of the aquarium. The result must be concave. 10. Glue the reinforcements, wedge them, and smooth down the glue (diagram H). |
Of the possible problems that may emerge during this procedure, the three main ones are:
- a pane may break when you are handling it;
- you may make a mistake in the mounting, especially with the small sides, if their length and breadth are almost the same;
- the pieces may not fit together properly.
In the latter two cases, leave to dry, unstuck, scrape off the glue with a cutter, clean, and then mount the tank again. If the aquarium leaks, indicate the source with a felt pen or sticky tape, then empty the tank and leave it to dry. Clean the defective area and reapply the glue on the inside, making sure to extend beyond both edges of the source of the leak.
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