Saltwater Aquarium Maintenance

Saltwater Aquarium Maintenance, is it needed ? Although an aquarium constitutes a self-contained environment, it nevertheless evolves: fish get bigger and reproduce, while plants grow. Similarly, the water undergoes changes that may not always be visible - the nitrate concentration increases but the mineral salts deplete- which is why it is important to maintenance it. As for the bed, this is enriched by numerous organic substances (animal excreta, surplus food) that will normally be converted into mineral elements.

The equilibrium of an aquarium is fragile and can rapidly be disrupted if a few simple rules are contravened. The first of these rules requires a daily inspection of the tank and its occupants, at feeding time, for example. In this way you can detect any sickness, worrying fish behavior, or an abnormal water color.

The second rule is to maintain the aquarium. When undertaken on a regular basis, the upkeep of an aquarium is not time consuming, and only demands 1 or 2 hours a week. Some operations need to be performed every day, others less often.

Certain parameters of the water, such as the pH, must be monitored once or twice a week.

Water Analysis
Bad water can cause problems unnoticeable to even the most discerning eye, so it is important to monitor its quality regularly. Four main parameters have to be monitored: the temperature, the pH, the nitrites, and also the density.

Checking the Equipment
You must also keep a close watch on the systems for lighting, heating, aeration, and filtration. As regards the lighting, make sure that the electrical contacts do not get rusty. In the aeration system, the small lozenge which filters the air needs to be changed twice a year.

The diffusers eventually get blocked by algae or calcium. It is best to change them, but they can also be unblocked. Clean the filtering medium regularly.  Any malfunction in the heating will quickly be reflected in a decrease or increase in the temperature: in this case, it is necessary to change the equipment.

The more regular the maintenance of an aquarium, the less time-consuming it becomes.

The glass panes of the aquarium can accumulate green or brown algae, calcium, or biological deposits (bacteria and non-pathogenic micro-organ isms). These deposits vary from one aquarium to the next and do not in themselves represent any danger to fish – the damage sustained by an aquarium through a dirty front pane lies more on the aesthetic plane. So the panes must be scraped with a razor blade or one of the small devices found in specialist stores. Domestic scouring pads can also be effective, but in the long term they scratch the glass of the aquarium. Do not forget to clean the glass lid, which gradually gets covered with algae and calcium or salt on the inside and dust on the outside, restricting the passage of the light needed by plants.

Looking After the Bed An assortment of debris piles up on the bed: fish excreta, bits of plants, surplus food, and sometimes, in a quiet corner, even fish corpses. All this disrupts not only the visual harmony but also the balance of the tank as more oxygen is required to degrade this debris. These are two very good reasons for getting rid of it by siphoning. Small specially designed vacuum cleaners are available in the aquarium trade, but you can also use a flexible pipe draining out into a plastic bowl, a sink, or a toilet. Changing the Water Partial water changes, at regular intervals, are one of the keys to success in fish keeping. The combination of this operation with siphoning eliminates both assorted detritus and some of the nitrates which eventually accumulate. The clear water that is introduced supplies some mineral elements and provides a stimulus for the aquarium: the growth of fish, the triggering of egg-laying, and the growth of plants. After 2 months or so you will see a striking contrast with aquariums in which the water has not been renewed. A change of 5-10% of the volume per week is therefore recommended. This obviously demands a stock of water with identical characteristics to that of the aquarium (especially pH, hardness, and salinity).

A Scrapers allow access right to the bottom of the panes, to get rid of any unwanted algae.

The ideal solution is daily renewal of a small amount, with the help of a drip. This technique is becoming more common among experienced aquarists. It requires a special installation, and above all an overflow for the aquarium equipment which is not readily available in every case.

However, many fish keepers find this system the ideal solution:
- the maintenance is reduced, as the water changes are less frequent;
- there are no abrupt variations in the environment;
- various substances, such as nitrates, are regularly eliminated and therefore do not accumulate;
- it entails a regular, though limited, supply of the various substances contained in the water (mineral salts, trace elements);
- the pH is stabilized;
- this method seems to restrict the growth of certain somewhat unsightly algae.

A Trick For Siphoning Off Waste

People who live with aquarists dread siphoning time, as it often leads to floods! The pipes can be too flexible, with a tendency to slip out of the aquarium or the container for the siphoned water. The trick is to get hold of a washing machine draining pipe or a snorkel, and slide the siphoning pipe inside it, making it possible to bend it over the side of the container or tank. A stiff bent pipe can also be used to siphon in the less accessible parts of an aquarium (grottoes, for example).

A Simple Drip Technique
Two points must be taken into account: the arrival of the new water and the overflow of the aquarium water. Do-it-yourself experts may consider making a connection with the plumbing pipes in the home, but there is a more simple solution. Take a PVC container, such as a jerry can with a faucet, for use above the water level of the tank. For aesthetic reasons, this is hidden in a cupboard or other piece of furniture. A flexible PVC pipe can be used to connect the faucet with the aquarium. Water from the aquarium can flow into another container, larger than the first, to avoid any risks of overflowing (diagram 1).

You will have to adjust the drip by trial and error, after calculating the volume that needs to be renewed (around 1 % of the volume of the aquarium per day).

Evaporation and The Water Level
The water in an aquarium evaporates. This has no ecological consequences, but it does mean that the surface of the water comes into view at the top of the panes, which is hardly attractive. This must therefore be adjusted on a regular basis, usually at the same time as you make a partial water change.

After a while a regular increase in the salinity of sea water is noticeable: the water that evaporates from the surface is fresh water containing no salts, and so there is a progressive concentration of salt or other mineral substances in the aquarium.

To avoid this problem, replace the evaporated water with very soft or demineralized water in order to readjust the hardness or density. This can be done when you change the water, by slightly diluting the new water with fresh water. Readjustment of the water level is not necessary if you are using a drip that functions automatically.

Maintaining the Vegetation
When you are siphoning on the bed, you must remove any dead leaves that may have fallen. Likewise, cut off, with a razor blade or scissors, any leaves that are starting to rot. When the plants need a new lease of life, you can take cuttings or use another means of vegetative multiplication. Liquid or solid fertilizer should be added regularly; the instructions on the pack will tell you how often and at what rate each product needs to be added.

When the Aquarist is Away
What do you do if you are away for more than a day? What will happen to the aquarium? This depends on the length of the absence, and certain precautions must be taken, especially for vacations. Short absences do not represent a problem. Marine fish cannot endure fasting for more than a week. This only applies to adults, as the fry must always be fed on a regular basis.

• A Long Absence
There are two options for a long absence:
- the first consists of using an automatic food distributor controlled by a timer, which can only be used with dry food;
- the second is finding a friend kind enough to feed your fish for you - preferably another aquarist who will monitor the feeding and the aquarium just as you would. If your friend is not a hobbyist, then you must prepare daily doses of dry food and leave him or her some instructions, in order to avoid any overfeeding. (However, this friend will not be obliged to drop by your home every day, one or two visits a week being generally sufficient).

Plants can go without lighting for one week, but after any longer period they turn yellow and gradually wither. It is therefore advisable to install an automatic timer that will switch the aquarium lighting on and off at specific times. This means that there is no need to let the sunlight into your home and so you can close your shutters. This is particularly relevant in summer, as it avoids any excessive increase in the temperature, which will have repercussions on the aquarium.

The use of batteries makes some food distributors automatic and very practical.

Automatic food distributor with a mains connection.

The lighting can be controlled automatically with a small electric timer.

• Vacations
Before leaving:
- check the pH, nitrites, temperature, hardness, or density;
- check the equipment;
- clean the filtering media and panes; do the siphoning;
- increase the frequency (but not the quantity) of water changes;
- put the vegetation in order by trimming the plants and taking cuttings. You can also add plants with fine leaves for herbivorous fish, if they are not going to receive any other food;
- slightly overfeed the fish for a few days before your departure;
- switch on the automatic lighting system and, if you are using it, an automatic food distributor;
- make a final check the night or morning before you leave.

When you get back:
- Switch off the automatic devices and generally put the tank in order (siphoning, panes, filtering media, vegetation);
- change 5-10% of the water every day for a few days;
- give the fish smaller portions of food than normal - if possible including live prey or fresh food - and gradually increase these amounts until they reach he usual level.

Remounting an Aquarium
A well-balanced aquarium can be self-sufficient for up to one year, or even more, if it is maintained on a regular basis. If this is not the case, remounting must be considered. This can also be done when you want to change the decor, move the aquarium, or even move home. Plants and fish must be stored in another tank, with their original water. Then take out all the non-living elements, and clean and store them until they are used again.

Now comes the turn of the actual aquarium. Start to put it back into operation by reintroducing fresh water of the appropriate kind. If the aquarium is to be remounted in a single day, it is advisable not to wash all the sand that serves as a bed, as it contains the good bacteria needed to under-take the nitrogen cycle. A rough rinse will get rid of the bigger pieces of debris, with only the top layer being cleaned several times, until the water is clear, for a good visual effect.

Golden Rules for a Good Balance
Here are some important rules to follow as regards a well balanced aquarium:
1. Think big: the greater the volume of the tank, the easier it will be to maintain its balance.
2. Make provisions for good filtration and aeration.
3. Consider planting the aquarium, even with sea water: many beginners do not put enough plants in their tanks.
4. Start with robust fish, easy to raise and recommended for novices: these are not unattractive, and are often found to be the least expensive.
5. Do not overpopulate.
6. Do not overfeed.
7. Regularly monitor the temperature, the pH, the nitrites, and the density.
8. Regularly siphon and change part of the water.

Saltwater Introduction

Cover all we need to know about saltwater, so we can keep marine fish.

Aquarium Supply

Lot of things we should prepare to start saltwater aquarium!

Aquarium Setup

Steps to be taken before the aquarium ready to receive
fish and operate.

Marine Fish

Detail about saltwater fish species. For beginner also expert.

Invertebrates

They difficult to keep, although there are some suitable for hobbyist.

Plants

There’s only a few of them, but the results can often be highly attractive.

Aquarium Maintenance

Get to know, how to maintain your aquarium daily to have
a good balanced.

Quick Tips

Maintenance Tips

Essential regular activity to provides a stable, healthy environment for fish!

10 Basic Rules

Follow this rules for a Successful Saltwater Aquarium.